Entrée, Gluten Free, Spring, Summer

SMOKY BEET BURGERS

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We are leaving for our trip in just over a week! I am so pumped. The anticipation is half the fun for me. In the spirit of leaving, I have been trying to use up the food we have so nothing goes to waste. This is a fun game for me, and leads to mostly vegetarian meals for Hugh. I'm priming his tum for all the croissants that are about to be consumed. I have so many suggestions for Paris, but if you have any favorite food/drink/walks/etc. in Antwerp or Amsterdam, I always appreciate tips from people who have been there.

I came across this recipe in an early copy of The New Persian Kitchen than comes out in a few weeks. I am a quick sell on homemade veggie burgers and find they are usually made with pantry staples and a few fresh items. Welcome to my fridge-elimination game, smoky beet burger! I've tried a generous number of veggie burgers now and learn something every time. First off, make more than you need. The leftovers make for an easy lunch, go great with some greens and an egg on top, or smashed and put in a wrap for a portable travel snack. When the recipe doesn't have breadcrumbs, be prepared to pay attention and handle the burgers deliberately. Eggs will bind, but they'll make you work for it. The texture and wetness of your mix should be similar to meat you would use for a regular burger. Even if you don't eat it, you know what it looks like, so at least you have a point of reference. If it looks too wet, flaxmeal, panko or a bit of coconut flour will help dry it. Personally, I like my mixture to have distinguishable chunks of the ingredients - no baby mash - so go easy on the processing. You want it pulsed just enough to stick together but lightly enough to appreciate the texture of say, the walnuts or bits of lentils here. It's unlike me to get persnickety on things like this, but I've made them enough times to have a list of mistakes, so I'm offering my two cents. A sweet and smoky vegetable-based burger is a good idea all notes aside. Congrats on a beautiful book, Louisa!

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SMOKY BEET BURGERS // Makes 8

Recipe barely adapted from The New Persian Kitchen by Louisa Shafia

I wanted to provide the recipe as written in the book, but I will make a few notes here as well as in the directions. I made a quick feta spread, which is naturally salty, so I halved the salt called for in the recipe. Add a pinch more with no spread. As it goes with a gluten and dairy free veggie burger, these are VERY delicate. Keep them small and handle them delicately. I ended up adding an extra egg because I got pretty heavy handed with both the beets and the lentils and needed more binding power. If you're a good measurer, you should be fine with the one.

  • 3 T. grapeseed/extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 yellow onion, very roughly chopped
  • 1 cup walnuts
  • 1/2 cup golden raisins
  • 1 cup grated beets
  • 3 cloves garlic, smashed
  • 2 tsp. sweet smoked paprika
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1 tsp. pepper
  • 1/2 cup cooked green lentils
  • 1 egg
  • 2 cups cooked short grain brown (or white) rice
  • // feta spread //
  • 1 cup/ 8 oz. feta cheese
  • 1/4 cup whole milk greek yogurt
  • squeeze of lemon juice
  • 1/4 cup chopped cilantro
  • few grinds fresh ground pepper

buns, sliced cucumber, microgreens, tomato for burger building

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Heat the oil over medium heat in a large sauté pan. Add the onions and cook for about 10 minutes until just golden. Add the walnuts, raisins, beets, garlic and paprika and cook another 10 minutes, stirring often. Let the mix cool slightly. Transfer the mixture to a food processor and pulse a few times until chunky.

Put the mixture in a large bowl and stir in the salt, pepper and half the lentils. Replace the food processor (dirty is fine) and pulse the other half of the lentils, egg and rice together a few times to make a coarse puree. Note: Louisa has you add all the lentils whole to the mixture, I felt like some of them in the rice puree helps it all hold. Add the rice mixture to the onion mixture and mix well.

Make the feta spread by mixing all ingredients together in a mixing bowl. Set aside.

Use lightly oiled hands to form 8-10 small patties just under 1'' thick.

Heat a heavy-bottomed skillet or cast iron over medium-high heat and add oil to coat the bottom. Place the burgers in the skillet (doing so in batches if necessary) and cook undisturbed for 5 minutes. GENTLY flip the burgers, turn the heat down, cover and cook for 10 minutes until the burgers have a firm, brown crust.

Serve warm with your favorite condiments.

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Beverage, Personal

TO FEED AND BE FED.

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Feeding people is an exercise in generosity. It takes time to prepare a menu, gather friends, shop for ingredients, clean the house, set a table, and clean it up. It costs money to buy food and all accompanied ingredients. Entertaining, be it for four or seventeen, takes time and money. I enjoy feeding people. I like making food, serving in that way, as an act of love and nourishing people I care about. That is why I cook. Not for myself, I am happy with hummus toast, but because my skill feeds someone elses need to be fed, to feel taken care of. I want to give that. Without noticing, I grew pragmatic about that process last year - not inviting people over for the sake of frugality or inconvenience. The book testing was over and I didn't want to try so hard, maybe some of you can understand that. Except around New Year resolution time, I realized I'd cooled it a little too hard. I missed it. I missed the fearless giving that happens around a table where food is shared. Despite practicality, we'd have more dinners with friends. 

My parents were out of town for the weekend so I jumped at the opportunity to use their beautiful yard and more spacious kitchen to get friends together. We were pushing it for an outdoor dinner, the weather is not that warm yet, but I put out blankets and extra jackets and we made do. Everyone brought something to share, Hugh and I grilled teriyaki black cod, Alaskan Halibut with cajun spices and green apple salsa and tri tip with a couple sauces. I made a pot of black beans with onions, wine and a number of other pantry staples that turned out better than expected. And of course there was a springy cocktail which I'm including the rough recipe for below. I can't exactly explain how in the hustle of feeding 17 people, I felt alive. Like I was supposed to be doing this. Nourishing people. 

It took time and money. It always does. It is always worth it. 

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STRAWBERRY GRAPEFRUIT SMASH // Serves 8

I can't think of a better combination for the change of seasons. It was perfect to make for a group. I am also thinking a blood orange and blackberry would be a nice and pretty combination, maybe even with gin if you wanted to have two types of cocktails out. These are rough estimates, taste and add as you wish. 

3 T. honey

3 T. natural cane sugar

16 oz./2 cups fresh grapefruit juice

16 oz./2 cups vodka

1 pint strawberries, roughly smashed

few sprigs of fresh mint

8 oz. club soda/soda water

ice for serving

In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the honey, cane sugar and a few tablespoons of the grapefruit juice. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Transfer to a large pitcher. Add the grapefruit juice, vodka, strawberries and stir. This much can be done in advance and kept in the fridge until needed.

Rough up the mint to release the flavor. When ready to serve, add the mint and soda water and give the mix one more stir. Pour the mix into ice filled glasses, letting bits of strawberry and mint get in the glass for presentations sake. 

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Snack, Breakfast, Entrée, Gluten Free, Spring

MUSHROOM, MILLET + LEEK FRITTATAS

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It can be tested and approved that a solid majority of our friends are either getting married or having a baby this year. I remember thinking last year that 2013 was going to be quiet on the celebratory front, but it has proven otherwise. Once we get back from our trip in April, every weekend seems to be booked with an event. Which reminds me, I need to keep my eyes peeled for dresses. It is impossible to find a dress when you really need one. It's true. In all the talk of showers, my brain starts piecing menus together. I made frittatas for a brunch shower last month. They are so perfect for feeding a group. They're inexpensive, easy to make, go well with baked goods, maybe a simple salad, fruit and mimosas. Am I selling you my shower menu? Something tells me you are familiar with the goodness that is eggs.

After yet another handful of trail mix yesterday, I huffed that I was bored of my routine foods. I go in phases, tending to burn out on something I really loved at one point. It's nice to have something at the ready for snacks or a quick meal to-go when needed. I find the lentil meatballs are good for this. I don't think I have used millet here yet, but now is as good a time as any to bring it in. It is part of one of my favorite salads from the cookbook. It is gluten free, seeing as it is actually a seed, has protein, B vitamins, fiber and is highly alkaline. You can use it anywhere you would use rice or quinoa as it takes on any flavor you'd like, much like those two will.I cook millet with a simple 2:1 ratio. It cooks quickly by bringing the rinsed grain and liquid to a boil, turn down to a simmer, cover and cook until the liquid is absorbed. Fluff, cover again and let it absorb the steam for optimum puffy texture. All said and done, the millet takes around 15 minutes. So glad to have these ready for early work days or pre-morning workout when I am easily persuaded to stay home and cook breakfast instead... which will very likely still happen.

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MUSHROOM, MILLET + LEEK FRITTATAS // Makes 12

I add a bit of grain (seed) here to make them a more filling grab-n-go breakfast or snack. You could use quinoa or even rice as a substitute.

I am a big fan of sheeps feta, the conventional stuff is usually made of cows milk and doesn't hold a candle to the real thing. Yes it's a bit more expensive but a little goes a long way. Trader Joes has an excellent one from Israel in a green/yellow package.

Lastly, I'm not sure I would suggest using muffin liners, but let me know if you try. I find that with items this wet, you loose half the food getting stuck to the paper.

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  • 9 eggs
  • 2/3 cup cooked and cooled millet
  • 1/4 cup cream or milk (coconut milk would work too)
  • 1 tsp. sea salt, divided
  • 1 tsp. fresh ground pepper
  • 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes
  • 8 oz. mushrooms, stems removed, roughly chopped
  • 1 T. extra virgin olive oil, divided
  • 2 leeks, cleaned, halved and thinly sliced
  • 3 Tbsp. chopped chives, parlsey, thyme or mix of these (plus more for topping)
  • 8 oz. sheeps feta
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Preheat the oven to 350'. Grease a standard muffin tin.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, 1/2 tsp. salt, pepper and red pepper flakes until well blended. Set aside.

In a pan, preferably non stick, over medium heat, add the mushrooms and a pinch of salt. Yes, dry pan. You saute them around until they sweat off their excess water. They will release water, dry back up and THEN add 1 tsp. oil and saute another minute. Remove and set aside. Heat another tsp. olive oil in the same pan, saute the leeks with another pinch of salt for 8-10 minutes until just browned. Add the leeks to the bowl of mushrooms, add the herbs and cooked millet and stir to combine. Once the veggie mix is relatively cool, add it to the egg mixture.

Fill the muffin tins a generous 3/4 of the way full, the mixture should last you all dozen tins depending on the size of your eggs. Top each with some crumbled feta and bake on the middle rack for 18-20 minutes. The center should be slightly underdone and will finish cooking as they rest. Garnish with any remaining chopped herbs. Allow them to cool for at least ten minutes before gently twisting them from the tins. Serve with your favorite hot sauce.

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