A few more notes on recent travel. We took the high speed train from Paris to Antwerp, Belgium. We stayed there for a few nights and then up to Amsterdam for a few nights. I don't have as comprehensive of lists for these locations as we cooled it a little after the passionate approach we took to eating and drinking in Paris.

// BELGIUM //

The train station in Antwerp is worth a stop in itself. It has won awards for train station design (What? Yes. That exists.) and is just beautifully done. We stayed at Atelier 20 B&B which was on the quaint grounds of St. Paul's Cathedral. The couple that runs the place was super helpful and friendly and I don't think I've ever had a lovelier view from my bedroom window (the first image in this post). A few blocks up was Normo, a great coffee shop where Hugh could get his coffee nerdery fix. We also visited Caffenation. I found a tiny little raw place where I could get some fresh juices, a welcomed beverage when my greens quota was far below average, Eten Vol Leven. Belgium is into beer and frites so to do as the Belgians do, we spent a few evenings at The Paters Vaetje. This was a "brown bar" local dive sort of place with over a hundred Belgian beers. It was not "sprouted kitchen-esque" per se, but we had a great time watching people. Maybe the most eclectic lunch experience was at Lombardia for veggie burgers. The menu in itself was confusing but the food proved simple and good. We enjoyed a few Thai dinners, pizzas take-away from a nearby Italian spot and grocery store provision picnics. We wandered the Grote Market (lovely at dusk - my favorite time to stroll). While we didn't make it to the MAS, you can get your art fix there.

We spent one day in Brugge (which in my opinion, is all the time you need there). It is known for the retention of its original European charm. We had a light lunch at Le Pain Quotidien which started in Belgium despite having dozens of locations now. We collected chocolates and speculoos treats while weaving through the small streets. I don't think I've ever seen such a density of chocolate shops.

// AMSTERDAM //

We rented an apartment in the Jordaan area, a great neighborhood, and I really loved having the extra space and kitchen. It was less expensive than a hotel too. We gathered produce and goodies for the apartment at the Noordermarkt. Bought the best brownies either of us have had in awhile at one of the bakery stands. They were some cross between a pudding cake and brownie and muffin which sounds heavey, but in truth they were just right. We may have walked away with a bag full.

There was apple cake down the street at the highly suggested Winkel. The cake was great, but I wouldn't recommend getting food there. It seems they ride off the reputation of that cake. I really enjoyed the deli salad plate atBuffet van Odette while watching the world go by on the corner patio. Brunch at Lovefood HQ - which has a sort of British spin to the menu. A little ways out of town is Restaurant De Kas (as seen in a few of these photos). It is a restaurant within a reconstructed green house and the space is just phenomenal. They source most of their food from a nearby farm and the menu changes daily. We found Stach while packing up travel snacks for the trip home. Lots of great salads, sandwiches, yummy homemade muesli and last minute gifts.

Travel and night strolls go hand in hand for us. Europe is charming by day, but my heart puddles a bit when I see it lit up in the evening. The canal streets in Amsterdam are perfect for this. A good night walk is best accompanied by a good hot chocolate (just a note for the first-time Amsterdam traveler: a "coffee shop" is not always a coffee shop. If you go looking for hot cocoa, you're just as likely find, um, something more potent than caffeine).

Ever fascinated by the holocaust, I LOVED going through the Anne Frank Museum. A must. We also saw the FOAM photography museum, something you could probably do in under an hour. There are only four exhibitions, so I would suggest checking what they are online to see if they are of interest. You can take the free ferry across over to The Eye where you can see a movie and/or have a drink in their restaurant with a phenomenal view of the city. You really must rent bikes, at least for a day or two. We rode around through Vondelpark, a great spot for walking or picnicing as well.

One of my favorite parts of this leg of the trip was meeting Sarah Britton of My New Roots while she was in town teaching a few classes. I believe I have a sixth sense of reading people, and I know a good egg when I see it. Sarah is as light and wonderful as you'd assume from reading her site. I left our chat feeling inspired and grateful for what a tangled and fantastic world the blogsphere is.

We planned to have a nice dinner out our last evening, but ran into all my final choices being closed on Mondays (I had lots of recs for Balthazars, but we were there all nights it was closed. Add it to your notes to check out). We grabbed pizzas from La Perla and an inexpensive twist top cabernet from the market, talked highs and lows of the trip and made a list of all the places in the world we hope to see. It was my favorite meal of the entire trip, just sitting on a park bench, laughing in retrospect at my mid-trip hormonal meltdown. Food is as good as the company you keep while dining. You are my favorite person, Hugh Forte.

“We ate well and cheaply and drank well and cheaply and slept well and warm together and loved each other.”

― Ernest Hemingway, A Moveable Feast

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Travel

PARIS.

Sara Forte · April 14, 2013

I was in Paris almost nine years ago with my family. I remember loving it then; my first trip to Europe felt big. The food culture, how late people stay out, the manicured parks, the endless amount of things to do and eat and see. I knew I would be back. The cityis romantic in all ways "romantic" can be interpreted - whatever you are passionate about, whatever lights a fire in you, gets fed here. If you have been, that may make sense to you, and if you hope or plan to go, it is a place worth soaking in. I am in love with traveling for the sake of experiencing the spirit of different countries and cities. The fiestiness of the French, the frequency with which Italians yell and use their hands, the gusto the Spaniards have towards just being "out." You miss those things if you are always moving. Sit. Watch. Allow them, everyone else in the world, to change your own anthem.

We filled our days doing our share of watching and moving. I had more recommendations than we had time. I want to include a few travel posts here to mention places we enjoyed. It was so helpful to have Heidiand David's lists along with some recommendations from friends and readers. You can wander and find good food, but in a city well traveled, I appreciated being pointed in the right direction. We were in town for six days, one of which we were zombies from not sleeping on the plane and grabbed simple salad and sandwich things at the grocery store so we could just get settled and go to bed early. So, let's say five. Breakfasts were always at the hotel, something light. We stayed at Hotel Design Sorbonne the first few nights and La Belle Juliette the latter half (we adored this hotel). The room was beautiful, a little more space than an average Paris hotel room, the staff was helpful, and the bed was super comfortable. I worked at a luxury hotel for a few years and I notice details because of that experience, this hotel does a lot of things right. We ate a lot of good food, but where we stayed made this leg of the trip even better.

It never ceases to humble me that people value and make the recipes I write. We were recently nominated for the 2013 Saveur Food Blog Awards for Best Original Recipes and I found it to be another nod from the universe that I am doing what I am supposed to be doing. If you feel so obliged, and I would be grateful, today is the last day to vote! Thank you :)

// PARIS FOOD //

L' As du Falafel: Hugh's last meal on earth would be a very specific schwarma from a little spot in Berlin that he can no longer remember the name of. He found this new spot on yelp (which I later realized was on every rec list I had). It is in the Marais area on a street with a handful of other falafel shops. It's a street food situation, ordering at the window and eating your sandwich off the sidewalk. I had the falafel pita and if you are in Paris, you must eat this. Its reputation is completely worth the praise. They have printed on the front door "recommended by Lenny Kravitz"...and who needs Yelp reviews when you have that?

Laduree: The service was a bit snippy, but for perfect macarons, I can overlook it. The pistachio was my favorite. We also split the chocolate and salted caramel ones in half and swapped halves to make a fabulous combo. If you are near the Canal, grab bread from Du Pain et Des Idees. The pastry will look intriguing, but go for the bread. We wanted to try a few other pastry shops but ran out of time and room in the bellies.

Rose Bakery: You may have heard of their book. The casual spot is perfect for lunch. The menu changes frequently and there were a lot of vegetarian options. I ordered the composed bowl of all of their salads and it was lovely. Reminded me that I need to make Muhummara.

Nanashi: Similar to Rose Bakery in theory with the small portions, changing deli salads and vegetables. Perfect when you want something a bit lighter and great to take-away the little boxes for a park picnic.

Breizh Cafe: This was my favorite meal but I don't qualify that by food alone. It was a warm, Sunday evening and all the doors were open. There were people out everywhere and the restaurant was bustling. We found out we like dry, hard ciders, which is what everyone drinks here. They have galettes and crepes which are filled with just the perfect amount of fillings. Mine had spring vegetables, gruyere, a runny egg and I dumped a green salad on top. So delicious. I'm going to try to recreate this simple spring meal at home.

Telescope: You can get coffee all over the place but you have to keep an eye out for "coffee shops" as we know them. This was a good find. There is a great list of other coffee shops for coffee lovers over on Lingered Upon.

Les Enfants Perdus: There is something intriguing about ordering and not really knowing what you'll get. A refreshing contrast to home. We stopped in for lunch and the kind waiter tried his best to translate, which gave us at least the focus of the dish, and we just made an educated guess. I had a lovely dish of braised whole leeks, poached eggs, greens and a chunky shallot vinaigrette, and Hugh had roast chicken with risotto. The ambiance was sweet and they have a great little shop across the way with specialty kitchen items.

Le Burgundry: We were treated to a tasting menu dinner here by the hotel. They have a Michelin star and the food has the whole molecular gastronomy feel to it. We had this delcious dessert with a sea salt shortbread, ganache and a caramely tuile. This place is for someone feeling very fancy.

Verjus Bar a Vin: Ok maybe this ties for favorite meal because the food was incredible. We ate at the wine bar and did a bunch of small plates and tried a few different wines. The combination of flavors and textures were perfect so I'm glad we were able to try a lot of different things. It is owned by an American couple and the servers were super friendly and nice. They have a full restaurant upstairs, but I liked the little cave bar.

Maime Gateaux: We weren't recommended this stop, but we noticed it was always packed so gave it a try. Perfect for a light lunch or a tea + treat break. I didn't try one as we were there for coffee and treats, but the tarte/quiche deal that seemed popular looked delcious.

// ETC. //

Walk down Rue Mouffetard - a street for the food lover. Lots of fromageries, boulangeries, charcuterie and produce stands. Pack a picnic and head to the Luxembourg Gardens. A little larger and so charming on a sunny day, Jardin Tuileries which is right beside the Louvre and across from the d'Orsay. If that isn't already too much museum for you, the L'Orangerie is located in the West corner of the garden.

We really liked Le Marais area in general, lots of shops, artists on the street and a young spirit going on. We were staying in St. Germain which is pretty central, making it super easy to get places. Then when we wanted less bustle, we'd roam Montmarte. Airbnb has short descriptions of each area that I found helpful. I think we hit every arrondissement and it was neat to see how much can change in the scope of a city. What a mesmerizing place.

Our accomodations were hosted by the Hotels Paris Rive Gauche. It was a pleasure. All opinions are my own.

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Appetizer, Snack, Travel, Gluten Free, Summer

SPICY LENTIL SUMMER ROLLS + TRAVEL SNACKS

Sara Forte · April 9, 2013

From our door to Paris with one layover, we had about 14 hours of travel time. I'm a multiple mini-meals lady, so one cardboard box of vegetarian mush on the flight over wasn't going to cut it for the whole stretch. Per request, I wanted to share a typical travel snack pack. I keep a few things in mind when packing food for the road/air. Bear with the stream of consciousness.

First off, food will likely be at room temperature for a few hours so choose items that are alright to be out awhile. This covers most vegetarian options, but worth saying. Those foods should have a good constitution - greens that hold up dressed, like kale or a broccoli salad, rice or noodle bowls packed with vegetables and sauce, wraps or sandwiches with lots of crunchy items inside. I try to keep the choices lower in salt (planes keep you puffy as is). While I am all about reusuable containers on a normal basis, storing food in plastic bags or disposable containers (I steal these from salad bars and tuck them away for circumstances like this) are easiest here. Something you don't mind throwing away or recycling. Lastly, bring an empty reusable water bottle and fill it up past the security check. Sure you get water on the plane, but I like to drink more than that wimpy cupfull once or twice a flight. It's nice to have throughout the trip as well. I loved Sarah of My New Roots recent post about travel foods too. It reminded me that I forgot to make these peanut butter bites.

This likely sounds high maintenance to a few of you, but it is totally worth the few moments of planning ahead to have fresh, light food while traveling. I went to bed at 2am the night prior but at least I had good snacks! Hugh would never take the time to pack food, but appreciates it greatly when the pretzels and peanuts have worn their welcome. Minimal bit of time invested, big reward.

My backpack full of snacks:

kale salad: chopped lacinato kale, hard boiled eggs, parmesan, thinly sliced celery and lemon vinaigrette (extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, white of a scallion, honey, salt and pepper)

summer rolls: recipe to follow

"favorite things" trail mix: roasted/salted pistachios, montmorency dried cherries, dark chocolate chips, toasted coconut flakes

maple chocolate chip cookies: I'll post this recipe eventually, good heavens. A version of these.

good greens bars: these are the emergency snack. Most "energy bars" are full of lots of soy and crap. These have the most virtuous list I've seen. Not my first choice of whole foods focused snacks, but they don't take up a lot of space and plug up hunger when you've gone through your fresh items.

sturdy fruit: apples, bananas, oranges

SPICY LENTIL SUMMER ROLLS // Makes 6

I made these the late afternoon before leaving, and everything held up fine a full day later. I did not pack a dipping sauce. As you can see my snack bag was quite full as it was, and I have had sauce taken by security (what is my life?) but a peanut sauce would be so tasty if you aren't dining on an airplane.

I made used the end of my homemade sriracha, but the bottled sort works great too. Carrots and beets were the last vegetables in my fridge, a combination of sprouts, cucumber, lettuce or sweet peppers would be great here depending what you have.

6 rice paper wraps (you can typically find these in the asian section of well stocked markets)
1/2 cup cilantro sprigs
1 1/4 cup grated carrots
1 1/4 cup grated beets
1 large avocado
1 1/2 cups cooked lentils
1-2 Tbsp. sriracha (see note above)
1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil
pinch of salt

Set up your roll workspace. You need a large bowl of warm water and a damp dish towel to work on. Set out your cilantro, carrots, beets, avocado and in a small mixing bowl, combine the cooked lentils with siracha, sesame oil and pinch of salt. Taste and adjust heat as desired. Remember this is what flavors the entire roll.

Working one roll at a time. Put the wrap flat into the large bowl of warm water, being careful to not let it curl up, until soft, about one minute. Lay the wrap down on the dish towel. Down the center, like a burrito, layer the cilantro, small handful of the carrots and beets, a few slices of avocado and a modest 1/4 cup of the lentils. Fold over the top and bottom ends over the filling, tuck the right flap over and then roll to close. Repeat with remaining wraps.

Enjoy or if traveling, store in plastic wrap for easy transport.

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SPROUTED KITCHEN COOKBOOKS

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Travel

BELGIUM + AMSTERDAM

PARIS.

SPICY LENTIL SUMMER ROLLS + TRAVEL SNACKS